印尼蠟染紗籠紋飾研究

A Study on the Indonesian Batik Sarong Patterns

本文分成五個章節，第一、第二章節探討紗籠型制的起源，西方學者進行東南亞傳統服飾的研究時，多數仰賴西方文獻、圖像，甚少關注中國的圖像與文獻資料。第一章節擬透過《職貢圖》與中外交流史籍，釐清紗籠發展的歷史。第二章節則是透過17至19世紀西方人遊歷亞洲的遊記與書籍插圖，比對第一章節的中文文獻與圖像資料，希能對印尼紗籠發展有更清楚的脈絡。 19世紀萊佛士（Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles，1781─1826）出版的《爪哇史》(The History of Java)是第一個系統性介紹印尼服飾的文獻，除討論服裝型制外，已提到紗籠的裝飾技法芭蒂(batik)，指的即是蠟染。因此第三、第四、第五章節以蠟染為討論的核心。第三章節先追索蠟染的起源，次則討論蠟染技法，透過中國文獻的記載，希能釐清印尼染製技法的發展歷程。第四章、第五章則是關注蠟染紋飾，本章以中爪哇、北岸兩區域為焦點，探討這兩個區域的歷史文化發展，如何形塑不同地區紋飾發展的特色。印尼歷經印度文化、佛教信仰、伊斯蘭文化、中國文化、歐洲文化等不同宗教、文化洗禮，蠟染紗籠紋飾也反映出不同宗教及文化下的影響。

 

This study consists of 5 chapters. The first and second chapters explore the origin of sarong dress. When research into Southeast Asian Traditional clothing, most of the western scholars rely on the western documents and images, and rarely pay attention to Chinese documents and images. The first chapter will specify the history of development of sarong by referring to “illustrations of Official Tribute” (Zhigong tu) and historical records of exchanges between China and foreign countries, to sort out relative Chinese literatures and illustrations. The second chapter will use westerners’ travel notes and illustrations of publications of their travel in Asia from 17th to 19th centuries to compare with the documents and images of the first chapter, in order to get a clearer context of the development of Indonesian sarong. In his “The History of Java” published in the 19th century, Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles (1781─1826) discussed not only Indonesian dress, but also the decorative techniques for sarong, batik. Therefore, the following chapters 3, 4 and 5 will focus on research related to batik. The chapter 3 will center on batik techniques, hoping to trace the development of batik techniques to its source by consulting Chinese literatures. The chapter 4 and 5 will stress on batik patterns, to delve into the characteristics of the patterns of different regions and their relative history by differing historic context and regions. Indonesian history is complex. Batik sarong patterns going through the influence of Indian Culture, Buddhist faith, Islam Culture, Chinese Culture, European Culture, etc, reflects the sway of those different religions and cultures.