中國詩詞《西江月》應用於服裝創作之研究

The Application of Classic Chinese Poems for Clothes Design

中國詩詞不論意境或形式都充分表現文化深度的美感，本研究期以服裝創作表達中華文化之美，並藉由傳統與創新，詮釋人文層次之時尚美感。過去有關服裝的創作研究，多以國畫、圖騰或漢字等具象文物，直接應用於創作上，詩詞抽象涵義的應用則較少被使用。本創作以宋代文學家蘇軾之詩詞《西江月》作為創作理念，將詩詞朦朧意境之美，透過服飾工藝技巧，展現於服裝作品上。研究者運用習慣領域理論，藉由設計思考的「轉換」、「轉變」與「轉化」，將《西江月》詩詞中「夢、風、雲、月」之意象，轉換到富有蕭瑟意境之晚禮服（主題：墨痕）設計上。希望本研究所架構之「詩詞意境轉換設計模式」，有助於服裝設計師找到新的創作路徑。

Chinese poems are renowned for presenting the depth of aesthetics of the culture. This research means to show the beauty of Chinese culture with clothing design, and to interpret fashion at a humanism layer through combining tradition and modern together. In the past, figurative relics such as traditional Chinese painting, totem, and calligraphy are often used as inspirations for fashion design while abstract meanings of poems are rarely applied to it. This work is based on the poem Moon in the West River by famous author/poet Su Shi from the Song Dynasty. It is meant to express the beauty of haziness from Chinese artistic conception through the clothes utilizing clothing construction techniques. The researcher applied “change,” “transformation,” and “conversion” from the theory of “habitual domains” to transform the imagery of “dream, wind, cloud, and moon” from the poem into a ball gown design (Topic: The Trace of Chinese Ink), which is rich in the sense of desolation and savageness. It is wished that the mode of transforming “artistic conception of poems” into “design” could lead a new path for fashion designers.