應用形態學與習慣領域理論於服飾設計流程之研究

A Study on Fashion Design: “M” Way and Habitual Domains to Combine Eastern and Western Costume

世界各國歷史服飾的演變，一直都是現代設計師創作的靈感來源，以東、西方歷史服飾為題的流行服飾設計，近年來也有不斷興起的趨勢。然而，服飾創意設計過程，多數是依設計師個人的經驗法則進行設計，鮮少能達到系統化或理論化的目標；因此，本研究希望能藉由形態學，發展出一個具學理基礎的創意設計流程，期望可啓發未來的設計師更多元的創意設計。本研究首先透過形態學─「形態分析法」之探討，擬出適用於服飾之設計系統流程；再以「東方」清末時期之旗袍與「西方」文藝復興時期之服飾為研究元素，運用以「形態分析法」為基礎之服飾創意設計系統，創作出服飾作品「東方西調─金昔」，最後再以習慣領域理論作為設計整合。研究結果顯示：設計師在服飾設計過程，需以「美學」素養為前提，再運用形態分析法之解剖方式，建構「拆解、歸納」機制，套用整合出嶄新的時尚設計作品。

With the growth of global economy, we have seen more frequent interactions between countries, while fashion and pop culture, as a unique language that is spoken beyond borders, are spread and accepted among nations with various cultures and traditions. The change of traditional costume from different cultural backgrounds has always been an inspiration for contemporary designers. These years the world has seen a trend of fashion costume design that developed with themes from both western and eastern traditions. However, most creative processes are merely descriptive of the designer’s personal experience, and are not theorized and systemized. This article aims to develop an academic foundation for creative design to inspire more future designers to more creative arts by exploring and interacting between the east and west. Through research and analysis, this paper hopes to provide more revelation and inspiration for the future fashion industry. Through the analysis of morphology, this paper aims to apply theory to costume design with western and eastern traditional clothing. This research team selected cheongsam and costume from western Renaissance era as the research base and constructed a costume design system from morphological analysis. As the result, the team fabricated clothing based on the results of the system and create “Golden Time” series.