快時尚的社會動力考察

Investigation on the socio-dynamics of fast fashion

本文針對近十年來風靡全球的「快時尚」（fast fasion）現象及其弔詭性進行社會動力學的考察。為便於釐清各種社會因素之間的脈絡，本文區分兩種形態迥異的快時尚生產型態：首先是以韓國東大門為核心的彈性接單模式，其特徵為平價精品、跨境物與流與掮客網絡，帶動了生產端的服務設計。其次是以ZARA、H&M等品牌為代表的全球量產模式，其特徵為大規模的全球物流與合法的設計抄襲，帶動了消費端的流行謎因。而無論是何種模式，快時尚的動力皆源自於年輕消費族群對於當下時尚感的需求，由此強化了「速度決勝」、「生產拼接」與「混搭風格」的操作策略。這些策略一方面構成快時尚的自我運作邏輯，另方面則催生出謎因消費現象。除了現象描述之外，本文並嘗試以一個引發熱議的「潮人迴路」模型，說明快時尚的內在邏輯，在於它既引導時尚、又製造差異特徵，其結果將使得任何時尚終將「退時尚」為結局。此一考察亦可為當代社會中的消費邏輯提供進一步思考的起點。

"This article aims to inquire into the inner logic and its paradox of the “fast fashion” in the recent decade. In order to clarify the related elements, it describes two types of fast-fashion production: 1). a small masstige production system radiated from Dongdaemun (Seoul) to neighboring countries, which is driven by enormous flexible production units, customized design service, trans-national logistics and purveyor-broker’s network; 2). a mass production and global logistics system (Zara, H&M), which is characterized by their parity popularity and design plagiarism usually copied both indie designers and iconic designer brands. The purpose of this article is to suggest a socio-dynamic approach embracing three requirements of fast fashion: highest achievable velocity, stitching supply chain, mix-and-match style. Therefrom can be observed a “meme consumption” phenomena. Besides, this article tries to introduce the hipster-loop (an auto-computing model) to elucidate that the meme consumption leads to a state of being popular, while people seeks to be different from others at the same time. This implies a paradox of fast fashion: the faster it runs, the more it approximates to negate itself (becoming out-of-fashion) and shift to future style. This finding is heuristic as far as it corresponds to the consumption logic of contemporary society."